Fitting: back drag lines and wrinkles on trousers

Fitting: back drag lines and wrinkles on trousers

Many people avoid sewing trousers because they don’t know how to make them fit. Let’s look at a couple of trouser fitting issues, shall we?

Case 1: back diagonal drag lines that start at the inseam and point to the side seams. The problem is, the crotch line doesn’t fit this particular person. How nice it is to have this sewing superpower, right? Otherwise, you’d be stuck with this poor fit on your ready-made trousers.

To fix this issue, slash your pattern at the inseam, close to the crotch point, and overlap by the needed number (usually it’s no more than 1.5 cm (5/8”) – check during fitting). This way, the upper part of the back leg will change direction. But don’t forget to make changes to the front leg as well – drop the front crotch point by the same number and re-draw the front crotch line. You’re not thinking about dodging the toile step, are you?

Case 2: drag lines under the butt radiating from the inseam at the inner thigh level. It is a common problem if one has a full butt.

To fix this issue, you will need to make the back leg wider at the crotch point level (by up to 1.5 cm [5/8”]), move the crotch seam by 0.5 cm (1/4”), and add the same number to the side seam.

A fitting issue is not an issue if you know how to fix it.

Other articles on fitting:

Fitting: back drag lines on trousers

3 cases of fixing fit issues

Trouser fitting issue: the crotch seam disappears up the bottom