Check out this fairly easy but convenient technique for finishing the slit on a sleeve using a wide cross-grain binding tape.
1️. Prepare the binding in the necessary size. The finished width of the binding shown in the video is 2 cm (3/4”). To do so, cut a strip that is 6 cm (2 3/4”) wide and 30 cm (11 3/4”) long. The strip should be cut on the cross grain.
To cut a binding with other measurements, you should take into account the following:
- binding width = (slit width) × 2 + 2 cm (or 3/4”) seam allowance
- binding length = (slit length) × 2
2️. Working on the right side of the binding, chalk-mark the vertical center line as well as the seam allowances at 1 cm (3/8”) from the long edge.
Before marking, ensure the chalk can be easily removed and leaves no stains on the fabric.
3️. Follow the markings to press the seam allowances to the wrong side.
4️. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Press down with a tailor’s clapper and let it cool down.
5️. Transfer the sleeve marking from the sleeve pattern to the right side of the sleeve. Then chalk-mark the seam allowances at 1 cm (3/8”) on each side of the slit. At 1 cm (3/8”) below the slit apex, the line splits and continues toward the corners.
6️. Cut the slit open, following the marking.
7️. Straighten the slit edge into a line. Nest the sleeve inside the binding, aligning the two free folds on the binding with the seam line on the slit. Machine-stitch at 1–2 mm from the free fold on the binding.
8️. Press the seam. Form a corner at the top part of the binding and press in place.
9️. Chalk-mark a line at 2.5 (1”) from the corner. The line should be parallel to the binding stitching line.
1️0. Follow the marking to topstitch the shaped top part of the placket on all sides. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. This way the placket is secured to the sleeve.
1️1. Press the seam.
More useful hacks can be found here:
Sleeve fitting issues: the sleeve cap is too high
Fitting: getting rid of excess volume in the back of the shorts
Adjusting garments with set-in sleeves to fit broad straight shoulders
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