Whenever you’re planning on gathering fabric, remember that the grain matters. Whether it’s cross grain, straight grain or true bias, the result is going to look different each time. Read the post and learn how to make nice and neat gathers and what machine settings to choose.
The gathering technique described below works great for fabrics that are not prone to be marked by needles. If that is not the case with your fabric, stitch the gathering lines over the seam allowance.
1️. Decrease the upper thread tension and set the stitch length to 4 mm.
2️. Using contrast thread, stitch two parallel rows of gathering stitches 8 mm (just under 3/8”) and 1.2 cm (1/2”) away from the edge on the wrong side of the garment piece.
3️. Gather the fabric by pulling on both upper thread tails.
4️. Stitch a line in between the gathering lines, distributing the gathers evenly. Remove the auxiliary threads.
The final result is going to depend on the fabric grain. You can see the difference in this photo:
More sewing tips in Vikisews Blog: