Paulina dress sewing course
Paulina is a dress with a close-fitting bodice. It features a waist seam that sits above the natural waistline. The skirt has a gentle A-line shape and features side seam pockets. The bust darts are transferred to the wide grown-on ties. The dress has a deep V-neckline and waist darts on the back bodice. The voluminous set-in sleeves are tightly gathered along the cap and bottom. They are elbow-length and finished with cuffs. The bodice of the dress fastens with grown-on ties crossed at the front and tied at the back, while the skirt closes with buttons and buttonholes at the center front. Paulina is midi length.
Model Varvara: Height 174 cm (5’8”), Bust 86 cm (33 7/8”), Waist 64 cm (25 1/4”), Hips 92 cm (36 1/4”). Varvara is wearing size 36 in height 3.
Model Yana: Height 174 cm (5’8”), Bust 107 cm (42 1/8”), Waist 87 cm (34 1/4”), Hips 122 cm (48”). For Yana we combined sizes 48 for the top and 52 for the bottom in height 3.
Model Sofia: Height 172 cm (5’8”), Bust 84 cm (33 1/8”), Waist 64 cm (25 1/4”), Hips 90 cm (35 3/8”). Sofia is wearing size 36 in height 3.
Sizes: 34–52 (EU) Size chart
Heights: 154–160 cm (5’1”–5’3”), 162–168 cm (5’4”–5’6”), 170–176 cm (5’7”–5’9”), 178–184 cm (5’10”–6’1”)
Difficulty: Intermediate
The access to the video lessons is not limited in time.
- The dress pattern in all sizes and heights, in the PDF format (A4, letter) printable on a regular printer and plotter format (both). The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900 mm width.
- A workbook describing all the stages of the garment toile making process, correction of fitting issues, construction of the main garment illustrated by photos, tools and equipment required, as well as extra information on how to work with the Vikisews patterns (how to print them out and put them together), how to choose the right size.
- Video lessons on how to select the materials (main fabric, interfacing material, and notions).
- Step-by-step video lessons on how to cut the garment pieces, perform the fitting, and sew the dress. These video lessons include such steps like:
- sewing the grown-on ties on the bodice
- sewing the side seam pockets
- finishing the grown-on facing
- sewing gathered sleeves with cuffs
- finishing the seams without an overlocker using the bias binding method
- hacking the dress into other versions
All the video lessons are divided into topics and provided in a consecutive order. Intense and concise, they are free from any irrelevant content.
- Feedback on any challenge-related issues (like fabric selection and size choice, toile and garment fitting issues, construction steps, etc.) will be provided by a mentor in a group chat at vikisews.com.
- sewing machine for construction
- overlocker (this may be replaced with a bias binding finish, a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine)
- buttonhole foot
- sewing machine needles Nos. 70–80, depending on the main fabric
To sew this dress, choose dress-weight fabrics with the following properties:
- medium weight, pliable, soft, non-stretch or with very little stretch, opaque. The wrong and right sides of your fabric should be practically the same
- the fiber content can include natural fibers (silk, cotton), artificial fibers (viscose), blends (cotton + silk, silk + polyester, cotton + viscose, etc.), and synthetics (polyester, polyester + elastane)
- the following fabrics are recommended: dress-weight viscose, crepe, linen, poplin, sateen, silk, opaque shirting fabrics
The dress in the photo is made of poplin. The fabric is medium weight, pliable, soft and low-stretch. The fiber content is a blend of cotton and elastane.
Attention! We do not recommend stretchy knit fabrics and lightweight sheer fabrics (chiffon, organza, stretch lace).
1.1. Main fabric, 140 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 3 | 3.05 | 3.05 | 3.05 | 3.1 | 3.2 | 3.3 | 3.35 | 3.45 | 3.5 |
2 (162–168) | 3.05 | 3.1 | 3.1 | 3.15 | 3.2 | 3.25 | 3.4 | 3.45 | 3.55 | 3.6 |
3 (170-176) | 3.15 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.3 | 3.35 | 3.4 | 3.55 | 3.55 | 3.65 | 3.75 |
4 (178–184) | 3.3 | 3.3 | 3.35 | 3.4 | 3.45 | 3.55 | 3.7 | 3.7 | 3.8 | 3.9 |
Main fabric, 55" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3 1/4 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 3/4 | 3 7/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 3/4 | 3 3/4 | 3 7/8 | 3 7/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 3/4 | 3 7/8 | 3 7/8 | 4 | 4 1/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 3/4 | 3 3/4 | 3 7/8 | 4 | 4 | 4 1/8 | 4 1/4 |
1.2. Main fabric, 150 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 2.85 | 2.9 | 2.9 | 2.9 | 2.9 | 3.1 | 3.1 | 3.15 | 3.25 | 3.35 |
2 (162–168) | 2.95 | 2.95 | 2.95 | 2.95 | 2.95 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.3 | 3.5 |
3 (170–176) | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3.05 | 3.05 | 3.25 | 3.3 | 3.35 | 3.45 | 3.65 |
4 (178–184) | 3.05 | 3.05 | 3.1 | 3.1 | 3.1 | 3.35 | 3.4 | 3.45 | 3.6 | 3.75 |
Main fabric, 59" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 5/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 5/8 | 3 7/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 3/4 | 4 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 3/4 | 3 3/4 | 3 7/8 | 4 1/8 |
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
2. Lightweight interfacing, knit or woven, non-stretch or with very little stretch on the crosswise grain, 30–40 g/m2, 140 cm wide, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
2 (162–168) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
3 (170–176) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 |
4 (178–184) | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 1.05 |
Lightweight interfacing, knit or woven, non-stretch or with very little stretch on the crosswise grain, 30–40 g/m2, 55” wide, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 |
3. Stitched bias-cut fusible stay tape with stitch reinforcement, 1–1.5 cm (3/8–5/8") wide:
sizes 34–36 — 1.1 m (1 1/4 yd)
sizes 38–42 — 1.2 m (1 1/4 yd)
sizes 44–52 — 1.3 m (1 3/8 yd)
4. All-purpose matching thread for the main fabric — 4 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine + 3 spools for the overlocker)
5. Eight buttons, 1.3–1.8 cm (1/2–3/4") in diameter
6. Fabric for the toile, for example, calico, i.e. inexpensive fabric with properties similar to those of the main fabric (the requirement is the same as for the main fabric)
7. Fabric for bias binding (in case the dress will be sewn without an overlocker), for example, cotton or cotton/silk batiste — 0.5 m (1/2 yd)
Size | Bust ease, cm | Waistline ease, cm | Hipline ease, cm | Upper arm ease, cm |
34–44 | 2–2.2 | 3–3.6 | 10.3–13.4 | 30.3–32.2 |
46–52 | 2–2.2 | 2.7–4 | 10.8–14 | 28.9–30.4 |
Size | Bust ease, in | Waistline ease, in | Hipline ease, in | Upper arm ease, in |
34–44 | 3/4–7/8 | 1 1/8–1 3/8 | 4–5 1/4 | 11 7/8–12 5/8 |
46–52 | 3/4–7/8 | 1 1/8–1 5/8 | 4 1/4–5 1/2 | 11 3/8–12 |
Height, cm | Back length, cm | Sleeve length including cuff, cm |
1 (154–160) | 124.8–126.9 | 38.4–39.2 |
2 (162–168) | 127.8–129.9 | 40.4–41.2 |
3 (170–176) | 130.9–133 | 42.5–43.1 |
4 (178–184) | 133.7–135.8 | 44.1–45.3 |
Height, ft | Back length, in | Sleeve length including cuff, in |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 49 1/8–50 | 15 1/8–15 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 50 3/8–51 1/8 | 15 7/8–16 1/4 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 51 1/2–52 3/8 | 16 3/4–17 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 52 5/8–53 1/2 | 17 3/8–17 7/8 |
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