Marcheline coat sewing course

6791,58
Marcheline is a semi-fitted lined coat with an accentuated waist. The fit is achieved with princess seams at the front and back. The bust darts are transferred to the pocket lines. The coat features flap welt pockets. There are shoulder darts, a center seam, and a vent on the back. The coat has a turned-down, notched collar with a separate collar stand. The shoulder line is extended and supported with shoulder pads. The long, semi-fitted, set-in sleeves are made up of two pieces and have faux button vents in the elbow seams. The coat fastens with buttons and buttonholes at the center front. Marcheline is ankle-length.

Model Sofia: Height 172 cm (5’8”), Bust 84 cm (33 1/8”), Waist 64 cm (25 1/4”), Hips 90 cm (35 3/8”). Sofia is wearing size 36 in height 3.

Sizes: 34–52 (EU) Size chart
Heights: 154–160 cm (5’1”–5’3”), 162–168 cm (5’4”–5’6”), 170–176 cm (5’7”–5’9”), 178–184 cm (5’10”–6’1”)
Difficulty: Advanced

The access to the video lessons is not limited in time.
- The coat pattern in all sizes and heights, in the PDF format (A4, letter) printable on a regular printer and plotter format (both). The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900 mm width.
- A workbook describing all the stages of the garment making process illustrated by photos: cutting out the garment pieces, doing a first fitting, fixing fit issues, constructing the garment. The sew-along also includes extra information on how to work with the Vikisews patterns (how to print them out and put them together), how to choose the right size, what tools and equipment to use.
- Video lesson on how to select the materials (main fabric, lining fabric, interfacing material, and notions).
- Step-by-step video lessons on the following:
- how to sew the bust dart using additional strips of the main fabric
- how to sew the welt pocket with a flap (the welt is attached in two steps to reduce the bulk)
- how to construct and attach the turned-down notched collar with a separate collar stand
- how to finish the vent in the center back seam of the coat
- how to finish the vent in the elbow seam of the sleeve
- how to finish the bottom edge and vent edges of the garment with the lining
All the video lessons are divided into topics and provided in a consecutive order. Intense and concise, they are free from any irrelevant content.
- sewing machine for construction
- buttonhole foot
- one-sided foot
- sewing machine needles Nos. 90–100 for the main fabric
- sewing machine needles Nos. 70–80 for the lining fabric
To sew this coat, choose coating fabrics that are medium weight, structured and non-stretch.
The fiber content can include natural fibers (wool, cashmere), blends (wool + cashmere + polyamide, wool + polyester, etc.), and synthetics (polyester).
The following fabrics are recommended: wool coating fabrics with a weight of 350–550 g/m2.
We do not recommend soft (containing alpaca, mohair) and loosely woven (bouclé) fabrics, as well as heavyweight and structured coating fabrics. Also, we do not recommend using printed fabrics (such as check ones), since it will significantly increase fabric requirements and will complicate the sewing process due to pattern matching.
For the lining, we recommend lining fabrics made of artificial fibers (viscose), blends (viscose + polyester), and synthetics (polyester).
The coat in the photo is made of wool coating. The fiber content is a blend of wool (80%) and cashmere (20%). The fabric is medium weight, structured, non-stretch and has a directional nap. The fabric weight is 380 g/m2.
The lining is 100% viscose.

1.1 Main fabric, 140 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

34–36

38–42

44–48

50–52

1 (154–160)

2.8

2.9

3.25

3.3

2 (162–168)

2.85

2.95

3.35

3.4

3 (170–176)

2.95

3.05

3.45

3.5

4 (178–184)

3.05

3.1

3.55

3.6

Main fabric, 55" wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

34–36

38–42

44–48

50–52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

3

3 1/8

3 1/2

3 5/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 1/8

3 1/4

3 5/8

3 3/4

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

3 1/4

3 3/8

3 3/4

3 7/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

3 3/8

3 3/8

3 7/8

3 7/8

1.2. Main fabric, 150 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

34–36

38–42

44

46–50

52

1 (154–160)

2.8

2.8

2.8

2.95

3.25

2 (162–168)

2.85

2.9

2.9

3

3.35

3 (170–176)

2.95

2.95

3

3.1

3.45

4 (178–184)

3

3.05

3.1

3.15

3.55

Main fabric, 59" wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

34–36

38–44

46–50

52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

3

3

3 1/4

3 1/2

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 1/8

3 1/8

3 1/4

3 5/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

3 1/4

3 1/4

3 3/8

3 3/4

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

3 1/4

3 3/8

3 1/2

3 7/8

2. Lining fabric, 140 cm wide, with a directional print, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

34

36–44

46

48–52

1 (154–160)

1.9

2

2.05

2.5

2 (162–168)

1.95

2.05

2.1

2.6

3 (170–176)

2

2.1

2.2

2.65

4 (178–184)

2.05

2.15

2.25

2.75

Lining fabric, 55" wide, with a directional print, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

34

36–44

46

48–52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 1/8

2 1/8

2 1/4

2 3/4

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

2 1/8

2 1/4

2 1/4

2 7/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

2 1/8

2 1/4

2 3/8

2 7/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

2 1/4

2 3/8

2 1/2

3

IMPORTANT! When purchasing the main and lining fabrics, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.

3. Interfacing, 70 g/m2, 140 cm wide, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

34–36

38–42

44–46

48–52

1 (154–160)

2.8

3

3.4

3.4

2 (162–168)

2.85

3.05

3.45

3.5

3 (170–176)

2.95

3.1

3.5

3.55

4 (178–184)

3.05

3.15

3.65

3.65

Interfacing, 70 g/m2, 55" wide, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

34–36

38–42

44–46

48–52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

3

3 1/4

3 3/4

3 3/4

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 1/8

3 3/8

3 3/4

3 7/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

3 1/4

3 3/8

3 7/8

3 7/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

3 3/8

3 1/2

4

4

4. Fabric for the toile (for example, unbleached calico), 160 cm wide, with a non-directional print/no nap, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

34–38

40

42–48

50

52

1 (154–160)

2

2.05

2.25

2.3

2.35

2 (162–168)

2.05

2.1

2.35

2.35

2.4

3 (170–176)

2.15

2.2

2.4

2.45

2.5

4 (178–184)

2.2

2.25

2.5

2.5

2.55

Fabric for the toile (for example, unbleached calico), 63" wide, with a non-directional print/no nap, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

34–38

40

42–50

52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 1/8

2 1/4

2 1/2

2 5/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

2 1/4

2 1/4

2 5/8

2 5/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

2 3/8

2 3/8

2 5/8

2 3/4

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

2 3/8

2 1/2

2 3/4

2 3/4

5. All-purpose matching thread for the main fabric (400 m / 440 yd) — 1 spool

6. All-purpose matching thread for the lining fabric (200 m / 220 yd) — 1 spool

7. Stitched straight-grain fusible stay tape, 1 cm (3/8") wide — about 8 m (8 3/4 yd) (for the main garment and the toile)

8. Stitched bias-cut fusible stay tape with stitch reinforcement, 1–1.5 cm (3/8–5/8") wide — about 10 m (10 7/8 yd) (for the main garment and the toile)

9. Buttons:

- three buttons, 2.2–2.5 cm (7/8–1") in diameter

- eight buttons, 1.2–1.5 cm (1/2–5/8") in diameter

- three backing buttons, 1–1.5 cm (3/8–5/8") in diameter

10. One pair of non-foam, layered shoulder pads for set-in coat sleeves; the recommended height of the shoulder pads is 1.5 cm (5/8")

11. One pair of sleeve heads or a piece of insulation, 100 g/m2, to make them

Bust ease

Waistline ease

Hipline ease

Upper arm ease

cm

11.2–12.7

8.4–12.5

13.2–15.4

9–9.5

inches

4 3/8–5

3 1/4–4 7/8

5 1/4–6 1/8

3 1/2–3 3/4

Height, cm

Back length, cm

Sleeve length, cm

1 (154–160)

129.7

61.5–63.6

2 (162–168)

133.7

63.5–65.6

3 (170–176)

137.7

65.5–67.6

4 (178–184)

141.7

67.5–69.6

Height, ft

Back length, in

Sleeve length, in

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

51 1/8

24 1/4–25

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

52 5/8

25–25 7/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

54 1/4

25 3/4–26 5/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

55 3/4

26 5/8–27 3/8

Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the course materials will be available. After the marathon begins, the following video lessons and downloadable materials will be provided:
1. A workbook with the detailed process description.
2. The pdf pattern in your chosen size and height, in the following formats: printer (A4, letter), and wide-format plotter (both).
The access to the course made up of the lessons, including all the stages of preparation, fabric selection, cutting and garment construction, is not limited in time. The video lessons cannot be downloaded.
If you have any questions on the sewing process, please leave them in the comment section under the video for the tutor to answer them.

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