Amidala Bustier Top sewing course
Amidala is a close-fitting bustier top with an accentuated waist and bust cups. The front and back are fitted with princess seams that feature contrasting channels for synthetic whalebone. The outer layer is made of lace. The top features foam bust cups with decorative topstitched channels. The bust cups are scalloped along the top edge. The front and back feature foam side panels at the waistline. The top closes with a separating zipper in the center back seam. There are adjustable straps decorated with strap bows at the front. Amidala is waist-length.
- sewing machine for construction
- one-sided foot for attaching the zipper
- pliers for adjusting the zipper length
- lighter
- bias tape maker
- dress form
- tailor's bust ham or corset ham
- tailor's board, tailor's clapper
To sew this bustier top, choose medium-weight, pliable, soft, non-stretch or low-stretch dress-weight and suiting fabrics made of natural fibers, artificial fibers, blends, or synthetics.
The following fabrics are recommended (fabric 1): matte satin (Peau de Soie), velvet, corset mesh, lace, guipure.
As fabric 2, choose natural or artificial silk, lightweight satin.
For the lining, choose soft, opaque fabrics: satin, natural or artificial silk, lining fabrics.
As the stabilizing fabric, we recommend using corset mesh.
For reinforcing the fabric pieces, we recommend using lightweight fusible interfacing, knit or woven.
For the cups, we recommend bra foam.
As the knit fabric for the cup seam binding, we recommend using single jersey, interlock knits, knits.
Important! We do not recommend stretchy fabrics (knits, stretch lace) and lightweight sheer fabrics (chiffon, organza).
The bustier top in the photo is made of corded lace (fabric 1). The fabric is medium weight, soft, and low-stretch. The fiber content is 100% polyester. The fabric weight is 170 g/m2.
The inner layer of the bustier top is made of corset mesh. The fabric is heavyweight, structured, and non-stretch. The fiber content is 100% polyester. The fabric weight is 75 g/m2.
Fabric 2 is silk. The fabric is medium weight, soft, and low-stretch. The fiber content is 95% silk and 5% elastane. The fabric weight is 70 g/m2.
The fiber content of the lining fabric is 95% polyester and 5% elastane. The fabric weight is 100 g/m2.
The interfacing is woven. The material weight is 48 g/m2.
The cups and side panels are made of 3 mm (1/8") thick double-faced bra foam. The material is soft and non-stretch. The fiber content is mixed: 100% polyester (top layer), 100% polyurethane foam (middle layer), 100% cotton (bottom layer). The material weight is 320 g/m2.
Bust ease | Waistline ease | |
cm | -0.2 to 5.8 | -0.3 to -0.1 |
in | -1/8 to 2 1/4 | -1/8 to 0 |
Height, cm | Back length from waist down, cm |
1 (154–160) | 17.6–13.7 |
2 (162–168) | 18.4–14.6 |
3 (170–176) | 19.3–15.5 |
4 (178–184) | 20.2–16.4 |
Height, ft | Back length from waist down, in |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 6 7/8–5 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 7 1/4–5 3/4 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 7 5/8–6 1/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 8–6 1/2 |
1. Main fabric 1 (with scalloped edges), 110 cm (43") wide, cut in one direction, for all heights:
Size | 34 | 36 | 38–40 | 42 | 44–46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
meters | 0.8 | 0.85 | 0.9 | 0.95 | 1 | 1.05 | 1.1 | 1.15 |
yards | 7/8 | 7/8 | 1 | 1 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/8 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 |
Main fabric 1 (with non-scalloped edges), 140 cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||
34–36 | 38–40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 0.35 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
2 (162–168) | 0.35 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.55 |
3 (170–176) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.55 | 0.55 |
4 (178–184) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.55 | 0.55 | 0.55 |
Main fabric 1 (with non-scalloped edges), 55" wide, cut in one direction, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | ||||||
34–40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 | 5/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 | 5/8 | 5/8 |
2. Lining fabric, 140 cm (55") wide, with a directional print, for all heights:
Size | 34–42 | 44–52 |
meters | 0.25 | 0.3 |
yards | 1/4 | 3/8 |
3. Additional fabric 2, 140 cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42–44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1–2 (154–168) | 0.65 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.75 | 0.8 | 0.85 | 0.85 | 0.9 | 0.9 |
3–4 (170–184) | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.8 | 0.85 | 0.9 | 0.9 | 0.95 |
Additional fabric 2, 55" wide, cut in one direction, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | ||||
34–36 | 38 | 40–46 | 48 | 50–52 | |
1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 3/4 | 3/4 | 7/8 | 7/8 | 1 |
3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 3/4 | 7/8 | 7/8 | 1 | 1 |
4. Lightweight interfacing, knit or woven, 140 cm (55") wide, cut in one direction, for all heights:
Size | 34–42 | 44–52 |
meters | 0.35 | 0.4 |
yards | 3/8 | 3/8 |
5. Corset mesh, 150 cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||
34 | 36 | 38–40 | 42–46 | 48–52 | |
1 (154–160) | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.55 | 0.6 |
2 (162–168) | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.55 | 0.55 | 0.6 |
3 (170–176) | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.55 | 0.6 | 0.6 |
4 (178–184) | 0.55 | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.65 |
Corset mesh, 59" wide, cut in one direction, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||
34–36 | 38–40 | 42–46 | 48–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 | 5/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 1/2 | 5/8 | 5/8 | 5/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 1/2 | 5/8 | 5/8 | 5/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 5/8 | 5/8 | 5/8 | 3/4 |
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
6. Synthetic whalebone, 5 mm wide, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 3.05 | 3.05 | 3 | 3 | 2.95 | 2.95 | 2.9 | 2.85 | 2.8 | 2.8 |
2 (162–168) | 3.2 | 3.15 | 3.15 | 3.1 | 3.1 | 3.05 | 3.05 | 3 | 2.95 | 2.9 |
3 (170–176) | 3.35 | 3.3 | 3.3 | 3.25 | 3.25 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.15 | 3.1 | 3.05 |
4 (178–184) | 3.5 | 3.45 | 3.45 | 3.4 | 3.4 | 3.35 | 3.35 | 3.4 | 3.25 | 3.2 |
Synthetic whalebone, just under 1/4" wide, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | ||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40–42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 | 3 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3 7/8 | 3 3/4 | 3 3/4 | 3 3/4 | 3 5/8 | 3 5/8 | 3 3/4 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 |
7. Bra strap elastic, 7 mm (just over 1/4") wide:
Size | 34–42 | 44–52 |
meters | 1.55 | 1.6 |
yards | 1 3/4 | 1 3/4 |
8. Separating metal zipper, in centimeters:
Height, cm | Size | |||
34 | 36–44 | 46–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (154–160) | 20 | 20 | 15 | 15 |
2 (162–168) | 20 | 20 | 20 | 15 |
3 (170–176) | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
4 (178–184) | 25 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
Separating metal zipper, in inches:
Height, ft | Size | |||
34 | 36–44 | 46–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 5 7/8 | 5 7/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 5 7/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 9 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 | 7 7/8 |
9. Two zipper top stops for adjusting the zipper length (if needed)
10. Two strap rings, 10 mm (3/8") in diameter
11. Two strap slide adjusters, 10 mm (3/8") wide
12. Bra foam, 3 mm (1/8") thick — 50×30 cm (20" by 12") for sizes 34–38 in all heights; 50×50 cm (20" by 20") for sizes 40–52 in all heights
13. Knit fabric, 110 cm (43") wide, for all sizes in all heights — 5 cm (2")
14. One pair of bra underwires (in the necessary size)
15. Matching thread for the main fabric — 1 spool
16. Matching thread for the lining fabric — 1 spool
























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