Mercy jacket
Mercy is a semi-fitted, fully lined jacket with a straight silhouette. It has front patch pockets and a round neckline. The set-in sleeves are long and semi-fitted. They feature elbow seam vents that close with buttons and buttonholes. All outer edges of the garment are finished with decorative crochet trim. The jacket has a single-breasted button and buttonhole closure and is below-waist length.
Model Varvara: Height 174 cm (5’8”), Bust 86 cm (33 7/8”), Waist 64 cm (25 1/4”), Hips 92 cm (36 1/4”). Varvara is wearing size 36 in height 3.
Approximate sewing time – 2 days (20 hours).
To sew this jacket, choose soft, pliable suiting fabrics made of natural, artificial, synthetic fibers, or blends.
Recommended fabrics: bouclé, tweed, wool suiting, gabardine.
The jacket in the photos is made of tweed. The fabric is medium-weight, pliable, and without stretch. The fiber content is a blend of cotton and polyester. The fabric weight is 350 g/m2. The lining is 100% viscose. The decorative crochet trim is made of 70% cotton and 30% silk.
1. Main fabric, 140 cm wide, 300–350 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||
34–40 | 42 | 44–48 | 50 | 52 | |
1.05 | 1.1 | 1.1 | 1.15 | 1.2 | |
2 (162–168) | 1.1 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.25 | 1.25 |
3 (170–176) | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.2 | 1.3 | 1.3 |
4 (178–184) | 1.2 | 1.2 | 1.25 | 1.35 | 1.35 |
Main fabric, 55” wide, 300–350 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||
34–40 | 42 | 44–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 1 1/8 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 | 1 1/2 |
Important! If you sew with chequered or striped fabric, add the length of 2 pattern repeats to the fabric requirements when buying the fabric.
2. Lining fabric, 140 cm wide, 50 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||
34–42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50–52 | |
1 (154–160) | 1.1 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.25 |
2 (162–168) | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.2 | 1.25 |
3 (170–176) | 1.2 | 1.2 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.3 |
4 (178–184) | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.3 | 1.3 | 1.35 |
Lining fabric, 55” wide, 50 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | ||
34–44 | 46–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 | 1 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 1 3/8 | 1 3/8 | 1 1/2 |
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
3. Interfacing, 140 cm wide, 35–40 g/m2, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||
34–40 | 42 | 44–48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 1.05 | 1.1 | 1.1 | 1.15 | 1.2 |
2 (162–168) | 1.1 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.25 | 1.25 |
3 (170–176) | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.2 | 1.3 | 1.3 |
4 (178–184) | 1.2 | 1.2 | 1.25 | 1.35 | 1.35 |
Interfacing, 55” wide, 35–40 g/m2, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||
34–40 | 42 | 44–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 1 1/8 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 1 1/4 | 1 1/4 | 1 3/8 | 1 1/2 |
4. Decorative trim for the outer edges, 3 cm wide, in centimeters (seam allowances included):
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
Upper edge of one pocket | ||||||||||
All heights | 15.1 | 15.5 | 15.9 | 16.3 | 16.7 | 17.1 | 17.5 | 17.9 | 18.3 | 18.7 |
Top sleeve vent and sleeve hem (for one sleeve) | ||||||||||
All heights | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 43.5 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 45.5 |
Neckline, center front edges, and garment hem | ||||||||||
1 (154–160) | 226.6 | 232.5 | 238.5 | 244.5 | 250.5 | 256.5 | 262.4 | 268.4 | 274.4 | 280.4 |
2 (162–168) | 230.8 | 236.6 | 242.3 | 248.1 | 253.8 | 259.6 | 265.4 | 271.1 | 277 | 283 |
3 (170–176) | 237 | 242.8 | 248.5 | 254.3 | 260 | 265.8 | 271.6 | 277.3 | 283.1 | 288.9 |
4 (178–184) | 243.1 | 248.9 | 254.6 | 260.4 | 266.2 | 271.9 | 277.7 | 283.4 | 289.2 | 295 |
Total length | ||||||||||
1 (154–160) | 338.8 | 346.5 | 354.3 | 362.1 | 369.9 | 377.7 | 385.4 | 393.2 | 401 | 404.8 |
2 (162–168) | 343 | 350.6 | 358.1 | 365.7 | 373.2 | 380.8 | 388.4 | 395.9 | 403.6 | 411.4 |
3 (170–176) | 349.2 | 356.8 | 364.3 | 371.9 | 379.4 | 387 | 394.6 | 402.1 | 409.7 | 417.3 |
4 (178–184) | 355.3 | 362.9 | 370.4 | 378 | 385.6 | 393.1 | 400.7 | 408.2 | 415.8 | 423.4 |
Decorative trim for the outer edges, 1 1/8" wide, in inches (seam allowances included):
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
Upper edge of one pocket | ||||||||||
All heights | 6 | 6 1/8 | 6 1/4 | 6 3/8 | 6 5/8 | 6 3/4 | 6 7/8 | 7 | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 |
Top sleeve vent and sleeve hem (for one sleeve) | ||||||||||
All heights | 16 1/8 | 16 3/8 | 16 1/2 | 16 3/4 | 16 7/8 | 17 1/8 | 17 3/8 | 17 1/2 | 17 3/4 | 17 7/8 |
Neckline, center front edges, and garment hem | ||||||||||
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 89 1/4 | 91 1/2 | 93 7/8 | 96 1/4 | 98 5/8 | 101 | 103 1/4 | 105 5/8 | 108 | 110 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 90 7/8 | 93 1/8 | 95 3/8 | 97 5/8 | 99 7/8 | 102 1/4 | 104 1/2 | 106 3/4 | 109 | 111 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 93 1/4 | 95 5/8 | 97 7/8 | 100 1/8 | 102 3/8 | 104 5/8 | 106 7/8 | 109 1/8 | 111 1/2 | 113 3/4 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 95 3/4 | 98 | 100 1/4 | 102 1/2 | 104 3/4 | 107 | 109 3/8 | 111 5/8 | 113 7/8 | 116 1/8 |
Total length | ||||||||||
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 133 3/8 | 136 3/8 | 139 1/2 | 142 1/2 | 145 5/8 | 148 3/4 | 151 3/4 | 154 3/4 | 157 7/8 | 159 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 135 | 138 | 141 | 144 | 146 7/8 | 149 7/8 | 152 7/8 | 155 7/8 | 158 7/8 | 162 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 137 1/2 | 140 1/2 | 143 3/8 | 146 3/8 | 149 3/8 | 152 3/8 | 155 3/8 | 158 1/4 | 161 1/4 | 164 1/4 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 139 7/8 | 142 7/8 | 145 7/8 | 148 7/8 | 151 3/4 | 154 3/4 | 157 3/4 | 160 3/4 | 163 3/4 | 166 3/4 |
You can also crochet the trim yourself. Here is what you will need:
- two balls of yarn, 50 g (1.75 oz), 165 m (180 yd)
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
- crochet diagram.
The crochet diagram is provided in the instructions.
5. Stitched straight-grain fusible stay tape, 1 cm (3/8") wide – approx. 4.5 m (5 yd).
6. Stitched bias-cut fusible stay tape with stitch reinforcement, 1.5 cm (5/8") wide – approx. 2 m (2 1/8 yd).
7. Four buttons, 2.2 cm (7/8") in diameter.
8. Eight buttons, 1.5 cm (5/8") in diameter.
9. One pair of shoulder pads.
10. One pair of sleeve heads.
11. Matching thread for the main fabric – 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine + 4 spools for the overlocker).
12. Matching thread for the lining fabric – 1 spool.
- sewing machine for construction
- overlocker for finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2–3 mm, stitch length 2.5 mm)
- buttonhole foot for the sewing machine.
Ease type | Ease measurement, cm | Ease measurement, in |
Bust ease | 16.8–18.3 | 6 5/8–7 1/4 |
Waistline ease | 36.9 | 14 1/2 |
Upper arm ease | 7.6–8.7 | 3–3 3/8 |
Height, cm | Back length, cm | Sleeve length, cm |
1 (154–160) | 46–48.8 | 59.2–60.7 |
2 (162–168) | 48.1–50.1 | 61.2–62.7 |
3 (170–176) | 51.1–52.9 | 63.1–64.6 |
4 (178–184) | 54.1–55.9 | 65.1–66.5 |
Height, ft | Back length, in | Sleeve length, in |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 18 1/8–19 1/4 | 23 1/4–23 7/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 18 7/8–19 3/4 | 24 1/8–24 5/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 20 1/8–20 7/8 | 24 7/8–25 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 21 1/4–22 | 25 5/8–26 1/8 |
Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the following will be available for download:
1. The pdf pattern in your chosen size, in the following formats: Letter, A4, A0, and plotter format. The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900 mm width.
2. Detailed instructions which include cutting layouts, construction steps accompanied by photos, as well as instructions on how to work with Vikisews patterns (printing, taping, adjusting, sewing terminology).
If you have any questions, please let us know at info@vikisews.com
Mercy Instructions Sample
VK Website
VikiSews
YouTube
VikiSews