Josephine dress
Josephine is a close-fitting, lined evening dress with an accentuated waist. It has a waist seam and a corset-style bodice shaped with princess seams. All the bodice seams are reinforced with boning. The dress has a low sweetheart neckline decorated with a draped, pleated overlay. The two parts of the overlay crisscross at the bust and extend to the back. The set-in sleeves are long and voluminous. They are gathered at the sleeve cap and hem and finished with bias binding. There are waist darts on the back skirt and a center back seam with an invisible zipper. The skirt is bias-cut and flares toward the bottom. The dress is floor-length at the front with a long train at the back.
Approximate sewing time – 3.5 days (28 hours).
Model Marina: Height 176 cm (5'9"), Bust 84 cm (33 1/8"), Waist 62 cm (24 3/8"), Hips 90 cm (35 3/8"). Marina is wearing size 36 in height 3.
To sew this dress, choose dress-weight fabrics with the following properties:
- light to medium weight, pliable, soft, non-stretch or low-stretch, opaque
- the fiber content can include natural fibers (silk, cotton), artificial fibers (viscose), blends (viscose + silk, viscose + polyester, cotton + viscose, etc.), and synthetics (polyester, polyester + elastane)
- the following fabrics are recommended: natural silk, artificial silk, crepe back satin, satin.
Attention! We do not recommend stretchy knit materials or structured fabrics (organza).
We recommend using the same fabric for the lining as for the skirt. This is very important for bias-cut garments. Even the slightest difference in the properties of the outer fabric and lining can cause distortion in the final garment.
As an additional fabric for the overlay, we recommend using lightweight, sheer, stretchy materials, such as tulle.
The dress in the photos is made of artificial silk. The fabric is medium-weight, pliable, soft, with a little stretch. The fiber content is 100% polyester. The fabric weight is 170 g/m2.
The lining is 100% polyester. The fabric weight is 170 g/m2.
The additional material for the overlay is 100% polyester tulle. The fabric weight is 30 g/m2.
The interfacing weight is 60 g/m2.
1. Main fabric, 140 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 6.2 | 6.35 | 6.45 | 6.6 | 6.7 | 6.8 | 6.9 | 7.1 | 7.25 | 7.35 |
2 (162–168) | 6.4 | 6.5 | 6.65 | 6.75 | 6.85 | 7 | 7.1 | 7.25 | 7.45 | 7.55 |
3 (170–176) | 6.6 | 6.7 | 6.8 | 6.95 | 7.05 | 7.15 | 7.3 | 7.45 | 7.6 | 7.75 |
4 (178–184) | 6.8 | 6.95 | 7.05 | 7.15 | 7.3 | 7.4 | 7.5 | 7.55 | 7.7 | 7.85 |
Main fabric, 55" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 6 3/4 | 7 | 7 | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 3/8 | 7 1/2 | 7 3/4 | 7 7/8 | 8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 7 | 7 1/8 | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 1/2 | 7 5/8 | 7 3/4 | 7 7/8 | 8 1/8 | 8 1/4 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 3/8 | 7 5/8 | 7 3/4 | 7 7/8 | 8 | 8 1/8 | 8 1/4 | 8 1/2 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 7 3/8 | 7 5/8 | 7 3/4 | 7 7/8 | 8 | 8 1/8 | 8 1/4 | 8 1/4 | 8 3/8 | 8 5/8 |
Main fabric, 150 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 6.05 | 6.15 | 6.25 | 6.4 | 6.5 | 6.6 | 6.75 | 6.85 | 6.95 | 7.1 |
2 (162–168) | 6.2 | 6.3 | 6.45 | 6.55 | 6.65 | 6.8 | 6.9 | 7 | 7.15 | 7.3 |
3 (170–176) | 6.4 | 6.5 | 6.6 | 6.75 | 6.85 | 6.95 | 7.1 | 7.2 | 7.3 | 7.45 |
4 (178–184) | 6.6 | 6.75 | 6.85 | 6.95 | 7.1 | 7.2 | 7.3 | 7.35 | 7.45 | 7.55 |
Main fabric, 59" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 6 5/8 | 6 3/4 | 6 7/8 | 7 | 7 1/8 | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 1/2 | 7 5/8 | 7 3/4 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 6 3/4 | 6 7/8 | 7 | 7 1/8 | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 1/2 | 7 5/8 | 7 7/8 | 8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 7 | 7 1/8 | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 1/2 | 7 5/8 | 7 3/4 | 7 7/8 | 8 | 8 1/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 7 1/4 | 7 3/8 | 7 1/2 | 7 5/8 | 7 3/4 | 7 7/8 | 8 | 8 | 8 1/8 | 8 1/4 |
2. Additional fabric, 300 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 1.65 | 1.75 | 2.05 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.15 | 2.15 |
2 (162–168) | 1.7 | 1.8 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.15 |
3 (170–176) | 1.7 | 1.8 | 2.1 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.2 |
4 (178–184) | 1.75 | 1.85 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.15 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.25 | 2.25 |
Additional fabric, 118" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||||||||
34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 1 3/4 | 1 7/8 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 1 7/8 | 2 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 1 7/8 | 2 | 2 1/4 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 1 7/8 | 2 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 1/2 | 2 1/2 |
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
3. Heavyweight interfacing, knit or woven, 140 cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |||
34–46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 0.3 | 0.35 | 0.4 | 0.4 |
2 (162–168) | 0.3 | 0.35 | 0.4 | 0.4 |
3 (170–176) | 0.3 | 0.35 | 0.4 | 0.45 |
4 (178–184) | 0.35 | 0.35 | 0.4 | 0.45 |
Heavyweight interfacing, knit or woven, 55" wide, cut in one direction, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||
34–46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 |
Heavyweight interfacing, knit or woven, 150 cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | |
34–50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 0.3 | 0.35 |
2 (162–168) | 0.3 | 0.35 |
3 (170–176) | 0.3 | 0.35 |
4 (178–184) | 0.35 | 0.35 |
Heavyweight interfacing, knit or woven, 59" wide, cut in one direction, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |
34–50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3/8 | 3/8 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3/8 | 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3/8 | 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 3/8 |
4. Stitched straight-grain fusible stay tape, for all sizes and heights – 2.3 m (2 1/2 yd).
5. Rigilene boning, for all sizes and heights – 2.6 m (2 7/8 yd).
6. One pair of foam bra cups.
7. One invisible zipper, 50 cm (19 5/8") long, for all sizes and heights.
8. Elastic, 1 cm (3/8") wide – 20.7–26.1 cm (8 1/8–10 1/4"), depending on the size. The exact elastic length is specified on the pattern pieces.
9. Matching thread – 2 spools.
- sewing machine for construction
- stitch-in-the-ditch foot for the sewing machine (optional)
- invisible zipper foot for the sewing machine
- one-sided foot for the sewing machine
- elastic threader (can be replaced with a safety pin)
Ease type | Ease measurement, cm | Ease measurement, in |
Bust ease | 1.7–1.9 | 5/8–3/4 |
Waistline ease | 1.5–1.7 | 5/8 |
Hipline ease | 5.8 | 2 1/4 |
Upper arm ease | 52.3–54.3 | 20 5/8–21 3/8 |
Height, cm | Center back length from waist down including train, cm | Center front length from waist down, cm | Sleeve length including binding and strap width (estimated), cm |
1 (154–160) | 155.7 | 115.9 | 61–61.5 |
2 (162–168) | 159.7 | 119.9 | 62.2–62.9 |
3 (170–176) | 163.7 | 123.9 | 63.9–64.5 |
4 (178–184) | 167.7 | 127.9 | 65.3–66.1 |
Height, ft | Center back length from waist down including train, in | Center front length from waist down, in | Sleeve length including binding and strap width (estimated), in |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 61 1/4 | 45 5/8 | 24–24 1/4 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 62 7/8 | 47 1/4 | 24 1/2–24 3/4 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 64 1/2 | 48 3/4 | 25 1/8–25 3/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 66 | 50 3/8 | 25 3/4–26 |
Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the following will be available for download:
1. The pdf pattern in your chosen size, in the following formats: Letter, A4, A0 and plotter format. The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900mm width. Note that for height categories 3 and 4, the plotter pattern comes on 2 pages.
2. Detailed instructions which include cutting layouts, construction steps accompanied by photos, as well as instructions on how to work with Vikisews patterns (printing, taping, adjusting, sewing terminology).
If you have any questions, please let us know at info@vikisews.com
Josephine instructions Sample
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