Mary dress
Mary is a semi-fitted dress with an accentuated waist and a skirt that flares out towards the bottom. The flaring of the skirt is achieved with additional pieces both gathered and pleated at the top and incorporated into the side seams of the dress. The front and back of the dress feature waist darts and center seams. There is an invisible zipper in the center back seam. The dress has an underbust seam, with the top front bodice gathered at the bottom, a low V-neckline, and decorative buttons along the center front seam. The edge of the turn-down collar is finished with cotton lace. The set-in sleeves are short and wide, featuring elasticated hem casings. The sleeve caps are both gathered and pleated. Mary is above-knee length.
Model Yekaterina: Height 172 cm (5’8”), Bust 84 cm (33 1/8”), Waist 62 cm (24 3/8”), Hips 88 cm (34 5/8”). Yekaterina is wearing size 36 in height 3.
Approximate sewing time — 2 days (16 hours).
To sew this dress, choose dress-weight fabrics with the following properties:
- medium weight, pliable, breathable, soft, non-stretch or low-stretch, opaque
- the fiber content can include natural fibers (wool, silk, cotton, linen), artificial fibers (viscose), blends (tencel + cotton, cotton + polyester, cotton + viscose, etc.), and synthetics (polyester, polyester + elastane)
- the following fabrics are recommended: shirting, cotton, poplin, sateen
Attention! We do not recommend stretchy knit fabrics and lightweight sheer fabrics (chiffon, organza, stretch lace).
The dress in the photo is made of dress-weight fabric. The fiber content is a blend of 98% cotton and 2% elastane. The fabric weight is 210 g/m2. The fabric is medium weight, without stretch.
The collar is made of 100% cotton shirting. The fabric weight is 160 g/m2.
1. Main fabric, 200–250 g/m2, 140 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||||||
34–36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 1.9 | 2.25 | 2.3 | 2.4 | 2.45 | 2.65 | 2.75 | 2.95 | 3 |
2 (162–168) | 1.95 | 2.3 | 2.4 | 2.5 | 2.55 | 2.75 | 2.8 | 3.05 | 3.1 |
3 (170–176) | 2 | 2.4 | 2.45 | 2.6 | 2.65 | 2.85 | 2.9 | 3.15 | 3.2 |
4 (178–184) | 2.05 | 2.45 | 2.55 | 2.65 | 2.7 | 2.9 | 3 | 3.25 | 3.3 |
Main fabric, 200–250 g/m2, 55" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | ||||||||
34–36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 2 1/8 | 2 1/2 | 2 1/2 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 7/8 | 3 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 2 1/8 | 2 1/2 | 2 5/8 | 2 3/4 | 2 3/4 | 3 | 3 | 3 3/8 | 3 3/8 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 2 1/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 7/8 | 2 7/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 2 1/4 | 2 5/8 | 2 3/4 | 2 7/8 | 3 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/2 | 3 5/8 |
2. Additional fabric (for the collar), 150–180 g/m2, 140 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||
34–38 | 40 | 42–48 | 50 | 52 | |
1 (154–160) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 |
2 (162–168) | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 |
3 (170–176) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
4 (178–184) | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
Additional fabric (for the collar), 150–180 g/m2, 55" wide, with a directional print/nap, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | ||
34–38 | 40 | 42–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
3. Lightweight interfacing, knit or woven, 40 g/m2, 140 cm wide, in meters:
Height, cm | Size | ||||
34–38 | 40–42 | 44 | 46–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (154–160) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 |
2 (162–168) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 |
3 (170–176) | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.55 |
4 (178–184) | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.45 | 0.5 | 0.55 |
Lightweight interfacing, knit or woven, 40 g/m2, 55" wide, in yards:
Height, ft | Size | |||
34–38 | 40–42 | 44–48 | 50–52 | |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 |
4. Cotton lace trim, 2.5–3 cm (1–1 1/8") wide — 1.1–1.44 m (1 1/4–1 5/8 yd)
5. Stitched bias-cut fusible stay tape with stitch reinforcement, 1.5 cm (5/8") wide — 1.83–2.17 m (2–2 3/8 yd)
6. One invisible zipper, 65 cm (25 5/8") long, for all sizes in all heights
7. Elastic, 1 cm (3/8") wide — 52–70 cm (20 1/2–27 1/2"), depending on the size
8. Eight buttons, 1.2–1.5 cm (1/2–5/8") in diameter
9. Matching thread for the main fabric — 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine + 4 spools for the overlocker)
10. Matching thread for the additional fabric — 1 spool for the sewing machine
- sewing machine for construction
- overlocker for finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2–3 mm, stitch length 2.5 mm)
- stitch-in-the-ditch foot for the sewing machine (optional)
- invisible zipper foot for the sewing machine
- one-sided foot for the sewing machine
- elastic threader (may be replaced with a safety pin)
Ease type | Ease measurement, cm | Ease measurement, in |
Bust ease | 1.8–4.4 | 3/4–1 3/4 |
Waistline ease | 2.6–3.9 | 1–1 1/2 |
Hipline ease | 180.3–289.8 | 71–114 1/8 |
Upper arm ease | 20.9–26.1 | 8 1/4–10 1/4 |
Height, cm | Garment length, cm | Sleeve length, cm |
1 (154–160) | 79.3–85.6 | 31.9–34.9 |
2 (162–168) | 82.3–88.6 | 33.1–36.1 |
3 (170–176) | 85.3–91.6 | 34.3–37.4 |
4 (178–184) | 88.3–94.6 | 35.4–38.7 |
Height, ft | Garment length, in | Sleeve length, in |
1 (5’1”–5’3”) | 31 1/4–33 3/4 | 12 1/2–13 3/4 |
2 (5’4”–5’6”) | 32 3/8–34 7/8 | 13–14 1/4 |
3 (5’7”–5’9”) | 33 5/8–36 1/8 | 13 1/2–14 3/4 |
4 (5’10”–6’1”) | 34 3/4–37 1/4 | 13 7/8–15 1/4 |
Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the following will be available for download:
1. The pdf pattern in your chosen size, in the following formats: Letter, A4, A0 and plotter format. The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900 mm width.
2. Detailed instructions which include cutting layouts, construction steps accompanied by photos, as well as instructions on how to work with Vikisews patterns (printing, taping, adjusting, sewing terminology).
If you have any questions, please let us know at info@vikisews.com
Mary Instructions Sample
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