Asami bustier
Asami is a bustier with underwire bust support. It features shortened underwires (Type 2) suitable for mid-coverage bras. The two-piece bust cups have horizontal seams and are trimmed with scalloped lace along the top edge. The bottom part of the cups is padded with bra foam. The bustier has adjustable straps made of bra strap elastic and a hook-and-eye closure. The widened band has a center front seam and boning channels at the sides, and is lined with corset mesh on the front. All edges are finished with picot-edge band elastic.
Model Alyona: Height 175 cm (5’9”), Bust 86 cm (33 7/8”), Underbust 75 cm (29 1/2”), Waist 65 cm (25 5/8”), Hips 96 cm (37 3/4”). Alyona is wearing size 75B in height 3−4.
Approximate sewing time — 1 day (8 hours).
To sew this bustier, choose knit or lace fabrics with the following properties:
- soft, stretchy (1.2–1.5 stretch factor), medium weight.
For the band, we recommend using stretch mesh, microfiber jersey, lingerie satin.
For the cups and band front insert, we recommend lace trim, allover lace fabrics, embroidered mesh, guipure lace (the fabric should have a scalloped edge).
For the band lining, we recommend corset mesh.
For the bottom cups, we recommend bra foam.
You can determine the stretch factor of the fabric yourself. Mark 10 cm (4") along the crosswise grain of the fabric, lay a ruler next to the marked section, and stretch the fabric. Divide the measurement you get by 10.
The bustier in the photos is made of stretch mesh and stretch lace trim. The fabrics are soft and stretchy. The fiber content of stretch mesh is 93% polyamide + 7% elastane. The fabric weight is 80 g/m2.The fiber content of lace is 95% nylon + 5% spandex. The fabric weight is 90 g/m2.
The foam cups are made of 3 mm (1/8") thick double-faced bra foam. The material is soft and non-stretch. The fiber content is a blend: 100% polyester (top layer), 100% polyurethane foam (middle layer), 100% cotton (bottom layer). The bra foam weight is 320 g/m2.
The band lining is made of corset mesh. The fabric is non-stretch. The fiber content is synthetic: 100% polyamide. The fabric weight is 45 g/m2.
1.1. Main fabric (stretch mesh), 160 cm wide, with a directional print, in meters:
Height, cm | EU size | |||||||
65 A–D | 70 A–D | 75 A–D | 80 A–D | 85 B–D | 90 B–D | 95 B–D | 100 B–D | |
1–2 (154–168) | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.25 | 0.25 |
3–4 (170–184) | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 |
Main fabric (stretch mesh), 63” wide, with a directional print, in yards:
Height, ft | UK/US size | |||||||
30 A–D | 32 A–D | 34 A–D | 36 A–D | 38 B–D | 40 B–D | 42 B–D | 44 B–D | |
1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 3/8 | 3/8 |
3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 |
1.2. Main fabric (lace), 22 cm wide, not accounting for pattern repeat, in meters:
Cup size | ||||
EU band size/height, cm | A | B | C | D |
65/1–2 (154–168) | 0.65 | 0.65 | 0.7 | 0.7 |
65/3–4 (170–184) | 0.65 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.7 |
70/1–2 (154–168) | 0.65 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.7 |
70/3–4 (170–184) | 0.7 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 |
75/1–2 (154–168) | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.75 | 0.75 |
75/3–4 (170–184) | 0.7 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.8 |
80/1–2 (154–168) | 0.7 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 |
80/3–4 (170–184) | 0.75 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 |
85/1–2 (154–168) | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.8 | |
85/3–4 (170–184) | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | |
90/1–2 (154–168) | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | |
90/3–4 (170–184) | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | |
95/1–2 (154–168) | 0.85 | 0.85 | 0.85 | |
95/3–4 (170–184) | 0.85 | 0.85 | 0.85 | |
100/1–2 (154–168) | 0.85 | 0.85 | 1.05 | |
100/3–4 (170–184) | 0.85 | 0.85 | 1.1 |
Main fabric (lace), 9" wide, not accounting for pattern repeat, in yards:
Cup size | ||||
UK/US band size/height, ft | A | B | C | D |
30/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 |
30/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 |
32/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 |
32/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 3/4 | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 |
34/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 3/4 | 3/4 | 7/8 | 7/8 |
34/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 3/4 | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 |
36/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 3/4 | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 |
36/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 |
38/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | |
38/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | |
40/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | |
40/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | |
42/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | |
42/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 7/8 | |
44/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 1 1/8 | |
44/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 7/8 | 7/8 | 1 1/4 |
2. Bra foam, 140 cm wide, cut in one direction, for all heights, in meters:
Cup size | ||||
EU band size | A | B | C | D |
65 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
70 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
75 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.15 |
80 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.15 | 0.15 |
85 | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 | |
90 | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 | |
95 | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 | |
100 | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 |
Bra foam, 55" wide, cut in one direction, for all heights, in yards:
Cup size | ||||
UK/US band size | A | B | C | D |
30 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/8 |
32 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/8 |
34 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/4 |
36 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/4 |
38 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | |
40 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | |
42 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | |
44 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 |
3. Corset mesh, 150 cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:
Height, cm | EU size | |||||||
65 A-D | 70 A-D | 75 A-D | 80 A-D | 85 B-D | 90 B-D | 95 B-D | 100 B-D | |
1–2 (154–168) | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.25 | 0.25 |
3–4 (170−184) | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 |
Corset mesh, 59" wide, cut in one direction, in yards:
Height, ft | UK/US size | |||||||
30 A–D | 32 A–D | 34 A–D | 36 A–D | 38 B–D | 40 B–D | 42 B–D | 44 B–D | |
1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 1/4 | 3/8 | 3/8 |
3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 |
4. Picot-edge band elastic, 1 cm wide, for all heights, in centimeters*:
Cup size | ||||
EU band size | A | B | C | D |
65 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 |
70 | 90 | 90 | 90 | 95 |
75 | 100 | 100 | 100 | 100 |
80 | 105 | 105 | 110 | 110 |
85 | 115 | 115 | 120 | |
90 | 125 | 125 | 125 | |
95 | 130 | 135 | 135 | |
100 | 140 | 140 | 140 |
Picot-edge band elastic, 3/8” wide, for all heights, in inches*:
Cup size | ||||
UK/US band size | A | B | C | D |
30 | 33 1/2 | 33 1/2 | 33 1/2 | 33 1/2 |
32 | 35 3/8 | 35 3/8 | 35 3/8 | 37 3/8 |
34 | 39 3/8 | 39 3/8 | 39 3/8 | 39 3/8 |
36 | 41 3/8 | 41 3/8 | 43 1/4 | 43 1/4 |
38 | 45 1/4 | 45 1/4 | 47 1/4 | |
40 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | |
42 | 51 1/8 | 53 1/8 | 53 1/8 | |
44 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 |
*The exact elastic length is indicated on the pattern.
5. Channeling tape, 1 cm wide, in centimeters*:
Cup size | ||||
EU band size/height, cm | A | B | C | D |
65/1–2 (154–168) | 125 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
65/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 140 | 140 | 140 |
70/1–2 (154–168) | 125 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
70/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 140 | 140 | 140 |
75/1–2 (154–168) | 125 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
75/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 140 | 140 | 140 |
80/1–2 (154–168) | 125 | 125 | 125 | 130 |
80/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 140 | 140 | 140 |
85/1–2 (154–168) | 125 | 125 | 130 | |
85/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 140 | 145 | |
90/1–2 (154–168) | 130 | 130 | 130 | |
90/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 140 | 145 | |
95/1–2 (154–168) | 130 | 130 | 130 | |
95/3–4 (170–184) | 140 | 145 | 145 | |
100/1–2 (154–168) | 130 | 130 | 130 | |
100/3–4 (170–184) | 145 | 145 | 145 |
Channeling tape, 3/8” wide, in inches*:
Cup size | ||||
UK/US band size/height, ft | A | B | C | D |
30/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 |
30/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 |
32/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 |
32/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 |
34/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 |
34/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 |
36/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 51 1/8 |
36/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 |
38/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 49 1/4 | 49 1/4 | 51 1/8 | |
38/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 57 1/8 | |
40/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 51 1/8 | 51 1/8 | 51 1/8 | |
40/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 55 1/8 | 57 1/8 | |
42/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 51 1/8 | 51 1/8 | 51 1/8 | |
42/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 55 1/8 | 57 1/8 | 57 1/8 | |
44/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 51 1/8 | 51 1/8 | 51 1/8 | |
44/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 57 1/8 | 57 1/8 | 57 1/8 |
*The exact length is indicated on the pattern.
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric and elastic, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
6. Synthetic whalebone or spiral steel boning, 4 mm wide, in centimeters*:
Cup size | ||||
EU band size/height, cm | A | B | C | D |
65/1–2 (154–168) | 70 | 70 | 65 | 65 |
65/3–4 (170–184) | 85 | 85 | 80 | 80 |
70/1–2 (154–168) | 70 | 70 | 65 | 65 |
70/3–4 (170–184) | 85 | 80 | 80 | 75 |
75/1–2 (154–168) | 70 | 65 | 65 | 60 |
75/3–4 (170–184) | 80 | 80 | 80 | 75 |
80/1–2 (154–168) | 65 | 65 | 60 | 60 |
80/3–4 (170–184) | 80 | 80 | 75 | 75 |
85/1–2 (154–168) | 60 | 60 | 60 | |
85/3–4 (170–184) | 75 | 75 | 75 | |
90/1–2 (154–168) | 60 | 60 | 60 | |
90/3–4 (170–184) | 75 | 75 | 70 | |
95/1–2 (154–168) | 60 | 60 | 55 | |
95/3–4 (170–184) | 75 | 70 | 70 | |
100/1–2 (154–168) | 60 | 55 | 55 | |
100/3–4 (170–184) | 70 | 70 | 70 |
Synthetic whalebone or spiral steel boning, 1/8” wide, in inches*:
Cup size | ||||
UK/US band size/height, ft | A | B | C | D |
30/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 27 1/2 | 27 1/2 | 25 5/8 | 25 5/8 |
30/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 33 1/2 | 33 1/2 | 31 1/2 | 31 1/2 |
32/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 27 1/2 | 27 1/2 | 25 5/8 | 25 5/8 |
32/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 33 1/2 | 31 1/2 | 31 1/2 | 29 1/2 |
34/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 27 1/2 | 25 5/8 | 25 5/8 | 23 5/8 |
34/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 31 1/2 | 31 1/2 | 31 1/2 | 29 1/2 |
36/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 25 5/8 | 25 5/8 | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 |
36/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 31 1/2 | 31 1/2 | 29 1/2 | 29 1/2 |
38/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 | |
38/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 29 1/2 | 29 1/2 | 29 1/2 | |
40/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 | |
40/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 29 1/2 | 29 1/2 | 27 1/2 | |
42/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 | 21 5/8 | |
42/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 29 1/2 | 27 1/2 | 27 1/2 | |
44/1–2 (5’1”–5’6”) | 23 5/8 | 21 5/8 | 21 5/8 | |
44/3–4 (5’7”–6’1”) | 27 1/2 | 27 1/2 | 27 1/2 |
*The exact length is indicated on the pattern.
7. Two strap slide adjusters, 1 cm (3/8") wide.
8. Two strap rings, 1 cm (3/8") in diameter.
9. Strap elastic, 1 cm (3/8”) wide — 96 cm (37 3/4”).
10. One pair of bra underwires (in the size indicated on the pattern).
11. Hook-and-eye tape — 16 cm (6 1/4”). The exact length is indicated on the pattern.
12. Matching thread — 4 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine + 3 spools for the overlocker).
− sewing machine for construction
− tailor's corset ham or bust ham
− overlocker for construction and finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2–3 mm, stitch length 2.5 mm)
− one-sided foot for the sewing machine
Important! We recommend using specialty needles when working with knit fabrics and elastic (for example, STRETCH, SUPER STRETCH, JERSEY, etc.). These are ballpoint needles, so they part the threads of the fabric you are stitching without piercing them.
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Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the following will be available for download:
1. The pdf pattern in your chosen size, in the following formats: Letter, A4, A0 and plotter format. The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900 mm width.
2. Detailed instructions which include cutting layouts, construction steps accompanied by photos, as well as instructions on how to work with Vikisews patterns (printing, taping, adjusting, sewing terminology).
If you have any questions, please let us know at info@vikisews.com
Asami instructions Sample
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