Villanelle Coat
Villanelle is a semi-fitted quilted double-breasted coat with a straight silhouette. It’s made with raincoat fabric and insulated with Isosoft 200. Diamond-shaped quilting is done on the front, back, and sleeve pieces. The bust darts on the front as well as the shoulder darts on the back start at the shoulder seam. The welt pockets, located below the waist, are placed over the side seams. Flaps are topstitched above the welt and cover the pocket opening. The classic notched collar has a stand and rectangular shaped lapels. The coat has a dropped shoulder and set-in two-piece long sleeves decorated with a tab and button. Villanelle is cinched in at the waist with a tie belt which passes through two belt loops at the side seams. Villanelle fastens with sew-on snaps and is mid-calf length.
The coat on the model is sewn with an asymmetrical quilted pattern on the front.
Model Angelina: Height 171 cm (5'7"), Bust 82 cm (32 1/4"), Waist 59 cm (23 1/4"), Hips 88 cm (34 5/8"). Angelina is wearing size 36 in height 3.
To sew this coat, choose raincoat and outerwear fabrics with the following properties:
- Medium weight, flexible, breathable, soft, non-stretch, opaque
- The fiber content can include natural fibers (cotton), artificial (viscose), blends (cotton + polyester, etc.), and synthetic (polyester, polyester + elastane)
- The following fabrics are recommended: blended raincoat fabrics, Dewspo, tweed, taffeta, Taslan, and other water-repellent and water-resistant materials.
Attention! We do not recommend stretchy knit materials or lightweight sheer materials (chiffon, organza, stretch lace).
For the insulation material, we recommend Alpolux 200, Isosoft 200, Fibertech, hollow-fiber, Thinsulate, Primaloft, or pre-quilted insulated material.
For the lining, we recommend artificial fibers (viscose), blends (viscose + elastane, viscose + polyester), or synthetic fibers (polyester, polyester + elastane).
The coat on the photo is made with raincoat fabric. This material is medium weight and non-stretch. The fiber content is 100% polyester. The lining is 100% viscose.
1. Main fabric, 140cm wide, with nap or directional print, in meters:
Main fabric, 140cm wide, without nap or with a non-directional print, in meters:
Height /Size | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
1 (154-160) | 3,49 | 3,5 | 3,52 | 3,53 | 3,54 | 3,59 | 3,63 | 3,7 | 3,76 | 3,82 |
2 (162-168) | 3,56 | 3,58 | 3,58 | 3,62 | 3,68 | 3,67 | 3,73 | 3,79 | 3,86 | 3,91 |
3 (170-176) | 3,69 | 3,7 | 3,7 | 3,7 | 3,75 | 3,75 | 3,81 | 3,82 | 3,87 | 3,92 |
4 (178-184) | 3,75 | 3,8 | 3,8 | 3,81 | 3,83 | 3,8 | 3,85 | 3,89 | 3,95 | 4,02 |
2. Lining fabric, 140cm wide, for all sizes:
Height, cm | Yardage, m |
1 (154-160) | 1,93 |
2 (162-168) | 1,99 |
3 (170-176) | 2,05 |
4 (178-184) | 2,11 |
Important! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
3. Isosoft 200 insulation material, 150cm wide, without nap, in meters:
Height /Size | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
1(154-160) | 2,5 | 2,53 | 2,55 | 2,56 | 2,56 | 2,57 | 2,59 | 2,61 | 2,66 | 2,68 |
2 (162-168) | 2,59 | 2,61 | 2,63 | 2,65 | 2,67 | 2,69 | 2,71 | 2,73 | 2,75 | 2,77 |
3 (170-176) | 2,57 | 2,6 | 2,67 | 2,71 | 2,73 | 2,74 | 2,76 | 2,78 | 2,83 | 2,85 |
4 (178-184) | 2,61 | 2,63 | 2,69 | 2,72 | 2,75 | 2,78 | 2,81 | 2,85 | 2,91 | 2,95 |
4. Lightweight woven or knit fusible interfacing, 140cm wide, for all sizes and heights – 22-26cm.
5. 4 sew-on snaps 2cm in diameter.
6. 2 buttons for the tabs, 2.2-2.5cm in diameter.
7. Matching thread - 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine + 4 spools for the overlocker to finish the lining, optional).
- Sewing machine for construction;
- Overlocker for finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2-3mm, stitch length 2.5mm);
- Walking foot for your sewing machine (optional).
Ease type | Ease measurement, cm |
Bust ease | 23,5 |
Waist ease | 44,5 |
Hip ease | 20 |
Upper arm ease | 12-17 |
Garment length is measured at center back.
Height, cm | Garment length, cm | Sleeve length, cm |
1 (154-160) | 111 | 56 |
2 (162-168) | 115 | 58 |
3 (170-176) | 119 | 60 |
4 (178-184) | 123 | 62 |
Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the following will be available for download:
1. the pdf pattern in your chosen size, in the following formats: Letter, A4, A0 and plotter format. The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900mm width. Note that for height categories 3 and 4, the plotter pattern comes on 2 pages.
2. Detailed instructions which include cutting layouts, construction steps accompanied by photos, as well as instructions on how to work with Vikisews patterns (printing, taping, adjusting, sewing terminology).
If you have any questions, please let us know at info@vikisews.com
Villanelle instructions Sample
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