How to add a decorative zipper to a sleeve inset

Adding a zipper to a sleeve is an interesting way to add details with character to a garment. See how to do it in the new tutorial part of the sewing hacks series by Vikisews.

Measurements:

• sleeve slit length along the center line— 21 cm (8 1/4"), at the hemline — 8 cm (3 1/8");
• sleeve hem allowance — 3 cm (3 1/8").

Working from the wrong side, apply interfacing along all the edges of the slit. Fully interfacing the inset piece.

How to sew:

1. Undo the zipper and place the wrong side of the zipper tape onto the right side of the inset piece. Line up the zipper stoppers with the hemline on the inset piece. Turn the top ends of the zipper tape under.
2. Machine-stitch the zipper in place along its entire perimeter, following the seam lines.
3. Place the finished inset piece to either side of the sleeve slit. Align the edges and then machine-stitch.
4. When reaching the corner, clip diagonally into the zipper tape, close to the stitching line. Turn the main pieces and then continue machine-stitching along the top edge of the slit.
5. When reaching the other corner, clip diagonally into the zipper tape once again. Turn the main pieces and then continue machine-stitching along the other side of the slit. Press the seam flat.
6. Working from the right side of the sleeve, topstitch along the zipper at 1–3 mm (up to 1/8") from the seam.
7. If your fabric is prone to fraying, finish the bottom edge of the pieced sleeve on the overlocker. Turn the sleeve hem allowance under and press in place. Secure the hem with either fusible web tape or by topstitching it on the sewing machine.

Then construct the sleeve as usual.

Give it a try, and check out other sewing tutorials by Vikisews:

How to sew a neck facing in a garment with plackets

How to sew pintuck cuffs

How to add elastic to the bottom of your garment