How to correct a trousers pattern when the waistline circumference is bigger than the standard size measurement. We are continuing on from the previous waistline correction post.
From the article “How to choose the right size”, you already know that you should choose your trouser size based on your hip measurement. If the rest of the measurements for that size differ from yours, then you need to adjust the pattern. For example, if your hip measurement is 98 and your waist measurement is 80, you should still go for size 40.
Now let’s compare the actual waist circumference and the standard waist measurement and calculate the difference. In our example it’s 80 – 72 = 8cm. Divide this number by 2: 8/2 = 4cm. This is the amount we need to add to the waistline.
- The back darts should be let out by not more than 1.5 cm. Transfer this width (1.5 cm/2 = 0.75cm) and add it to the inside of each side of a dart. The darts become narrower – the waist gains more width.
- Pleat at the front should only ever be let out by 0.5cm, which you also add to the inside of pleat.
Now the waistline is extended by 2cm.
- The remaining 2cm must be let out on the side seams of the back and front pattern pieces. Add 1 cm (2cm/2 = 1cm) to the side seams, adding extra paper by gluing or taping if necessary.
When modifying the waistband, it’s important to understand that we are not trimming away, but extending the pattern by adding extra paper. Make changes to your pattern the same way we did with the small waist correction, only this time you need to widen the waistband pieces to match the widened waistline. The scheme is above.
This should complete the pattern correction. Now you need to make a toile and check for fit, ensuring that the volume is evenly distributed around the hips and waist area. This will determine whether you will need to make another toile.
Making your garment fit you perfectly is the advantage we have over shopping for ready-made clothes. There’s a slim chance of finding a pair of trousers in the shops that will fit you perfectly both in the waist and the hips. Practice using Vikisews trousers patterns. Find them in the “Pants and Shorts” section.
More about pattern adjustments: