How to sew darts on delicate, sheer, and semi-sheer fabrics

Sewing darts on delicate, sheer, and semi-sheer fabrics like chiffon and silk can be intimidating since it has to be done with precision. Here are two methods to ensure your darts look perfect. Check out the Vikisews sewing hacks!

Transfer the dart from the pattern to the wrong side of the garment piece. To keep the lines thin and clear, use a sharp piece of tailoring chalk.

To make the dart look nice and neat, follow these tips:

1. Fold the piece right sides in, folding the dart in the center. Match the dart legs.
2. The trick is in threading your sewing machine. Start by threading it as you usually do.
3. Pull both threads out by 10−15 cm (about 5”).
4. Tie the ends of the bobbin and needle threads into a small knot.
5. Pass the knot through the needle’s eye, pulling the threads in the opposite direction.
6. Lead the thread through the entire threading path to the bobbin, leaving some extra length. The thread should be long enough to sew the dart.
7. Wind the excess onto the bobbin.
8. Important: In the needle area, ensure that the thread is tight, so no loops can form.
9. Set the stitch length to 2 mm.

Method 1

1. Fold the piece wrong sides in, folding the dart in the center.
2. Sew a seam within the dart, 5 mm (about 1/4») away from its marked lines.
3. Trim the dart excess, leaving a 2−3 mm (1/8”) seam allowance.
4. Turn the piece right side out and press with the seam right on the edge.
5. Thread the sewing machine as described above and sew along the dart line, from the dart point to the wide end. This way, the dart intake won’t be visible through the fabric.

Method 2

1. Stitch the dart, starting from its pointy end. The first stitch must hit the dart point.
2. Sew along the marked line from the dart point to the wide end. Thus, at the dart point, the seam will be secured without a backstitch which could eat the fabric, or threads inside the dart visible through the sheer fabric.

Now you can confidently sew trendy blouses from semi-sheer fabrics.

More helpful sewing tutorials are here:

How to make nice and neat gathers

How to make your outfit more flattering

Alya T-shirt: straight shoulder adjustment