Trouser fitting issue: the crotch seam disappears up the bottom

What can you do if during fitting you see that your trousers are too tight in the back crotch? Ooh, this certainly doesn’t look comfortable!

This issue may occur if you have a fuller butt or if your back rise is longer compared to the standard measurement.

If you encounter this fitting issue, a proper pressing and steaming (you need to stretch the upper section of the inseam and the bottom section of the crotch seam as you press) might help solve the problem. Here’s how you can do it:

1. Place the back trouser leg pieces right sides together and align the edges.
2. Stretch the upper section of the inseam and the bottom section of the crotch seam as you press and steam.
3. Shrink out the fullness at the back crotch seam.
4. Flip the pieces.
5. Press and stretch said seams, with the other side facing up.

If you haven’t done this before fitting, pressing should help eliminate this issue partially or completely.

If pressing didn’t help, you will need to adjust the pieces by making the curved section of the back crotch seam 0.5–1 cm (1/4–3/8”) deeper, as shown in the picture below:

Now you can choose the trousers pattern and enjoy your sewing!

More about bottom garments’ pattern adjustment:

Full butt pattern adjustment

Flat seat pattern adjustment

How to lengthen or shorten a bottom garment