Trouser fitting issues: horizontal and vertical drag lines

Trouser fitting issues: horizontal and vertical drag lines

Our customers often face a common problem when they do the first fitting of the trousers they sew: the trousers just don’t fit properly! All of a sudden, there are drag lines and folds, or maybe lines of wrinkles in the front; the sides sag and there’s bubbling in the back. Do you know why this happens? Yes, this happens because there is either too much or too little fabric in some areas.

Vertical folds and horizontal drag lines are the most common trouser fit issues. In this article, you’re going to find out how to tackle both of them.

Vertical folds may appear along the edges of the front trouser pieces due to too much ease.

Depending on the ease error, they might appear:

× At the front crotch area, around the front center seam

× At the top of the inseam

× At the front crotch and along the front inseam

To solve these issues, you need to decrease the width of the front trouser pieces and adjust the crotch width.

Note that the crotch width directly depends on the width of your trousers at the hipline. This means that if you’re taking in the width of your trousers at the hips, you will also have to shorten the crotch extension.

Vertical folds around the sides of your trousers may appear if the side seams of your garment are too curved. To fix this, you will need to move the upper point of the side seam slightly towards the center seam. This will make your trousers fit better at the sides.

Horizontal drag lines may appear below the front seam if the crotch is too short on the front trouser pieces (or, on the front and back trouser pieces at the same time).

To tackle this issue, you will need to make the inner thigh area of your trousers wider. How? There are two ways:

  1. Re-draw the crotch line (on both front and back legs if needed). Pic.a
  2. Re-draw the crotch line and move the side line by the same number. Pic.b

And that’s it! May all your trousers fit you perfectly!

Read more:

Fitting: getting rid of excess volume in the back of the shorts

Fitting: back drag lines on trousers

How to adjust a pattern for someone with a bigger waist

How to adjust a pattern for someone with a small waist