Gera bustier top sewing course

4140,60
Gera is a close-fitting, fully lined bustier top with grown-on wide shoulder straps and a curved hem. Unlike a corset, a bustier top barely shapes your waist, but it does accentuate it thanks to the close fit.
The garment is below-the-waist length.
The bustier top closes with an open-ended zipper at the center back. The back has two vertical princess seams running parallel to the center seam and a shaped princess seam coming from the armscye.
The front features two vertical princess seams and one shaped princess seam starting at the armscye as well. All the front and back seams are stiffened with Rigilene boning.
The top and bottom of the garment are finished with the facing pieces that have the lining pre-stitched to them. The lining repeats the shape of the main garment.
Model Vika: Bust 84cm (33 1/8”), Waist 64cm (25 1/4”), Hips 90cm (35 3/8”), Height 164cm (5’4”).
Vika is wearing size 36 in height 162–168cm (5’4”–5’6”)
Sizes: 34–52 (EUR) Size chart
Heights: 154–160cm (5’1”–5’3”), 162–168cm (5’4”–5’6”), 170–176 (5’7”–5’9”), 178–184 (5’10”–6’1”)
Difficulty: Advanced

After purchasing the online course, you can also buy the pattern in an extra size for 7$.
The access to the course is not limited in time.
- The bustier top pattern in the selected size, in the PDF format (A4) printable on a regular printer and plotter format (both). The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900mm width.
- A workbook describing all the stages of the garment toile making process, correction of fitting issues, construction of the main garment illustrated by photos, as well as extra information on how to work with the Vikisews patterns (how to print them out and put them together), how to choose the right size and what equipment and notions you’re going to need
- Video lessons on how to select the materials (main fabric, lining fabric, interfacing material and accessories)
- Step-by-step video lessons on how to cut and sew the toile and do the fitting
- Step-by-step video lessons on how to cut the main garment pieces, do the fitting, sew the bustier top of duchess satin, pre-attach the lining, sew the open-ended zipper in, finish the neckline, armscyes and garment hem with facings, finish the wrong side of the bustier top with the lining.
Extra lessons:
- How to make a lace-up closure for the bustier top
- How to adjust the bust shape and insert bra cups into your bustier top
- How to make a tailor’s ham for bra steam ironing
- All the video lessons are divided into topics and provided in a consecutive order. Intense and concise, they are free from any irrelevant content.
- Feedback on any course-related issues (like fabric selection and size choice, toile and garment fitting issues, construction steps, etc.) will be provided by a tutor in a group chat on our website.
- Sewing machine for construction;
- Stitch-in-the-ditch foot;
- One-sided presser foot;
- Machine needles for the main fabric, size 80;
- Machine needles for the lining fabric, size 70–80;
- A loop turner;
- A ruler, a French curve, a measuring tape, pins, chalk, self-adhesive paper tape;
- Steam pressing tools: a tailor’s board, a bra-making / breast-ball tailor’s ham, a tailor’s clapper, an anti-steam heat-resistant glove, a steam ironing system or an iron;
- Pliers, a knife, flat-blade screwdrivers in two sizes.
To sew this bustier top, choose solid-color fabrics or fabrics with a small non-directional print, with the following properties:
- Medium-weight or heavyweight, structured, non-stretch
- The fabric must hold its shape well in both directions, along the warp and weft.
In case of a large or directional fabric print, you’ll need more fabric and notions and will have to match the print across the garment pieces. Besides, because of the multiple seams, the print won’t be manifested in the right way.
We recommend using the duchess satin, which, unlike other types of satin, holds its shape well both along the warp and weft, and its right side has a luxurious, lustrous and glossy finish. The fabric is heavyweight and opaque. The fiber content is 100% polyester, the fabric weight is 280 gsm (8.26 oz/yd2).
You can also use suiting fabrics with a low content of natural fibers (cotton + polyester, wool + polyester, wool + acryl). Elastane-free denim fabrics, holding shape well in both directions, not too heavy or too lightweight, with the fabric weight of 260–280 gsm (7.67–8.26 oz/yd2).
Attention! Fabrics with the following properties should not be used for the main garment:
- Stretchy, lightweight, loose-weave, soft, non-structured
Interfacing materials. Important! Non-stretch, holding shape well in both directions.
Two types:
- Woven interfacing for the main garment, fiber content: 70% viscose + 30% polyester, fabric weight: 65 gsm (1.9 oz/yd2).
- Lightweight interfacing for facings and zipper placket, fiber content: 100% polyester, fabric weight: 39 gsm (1.15 oz/yd2).
For the lining, use lining fabrics (viscose, viscose + elastane, viscose + polyester). The lining must be smooth, opaque, nice to the feel, non-stretch or with very little stretch.

1. Main fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:

Height/size

34-38

40-44

46-52

1 (154-160)

0,71

0,84

0,89

2 (162-168)

0,73

0,87

0,91

3 (170-176)

0,76

0,91

0,94

4 (178-184)

0,8

0,94

1

Main fabric, 55” wide, cut in one direction, in yards:

Height/size

34-38

40-44

46-52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

3/4

7/8

1

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3/4

1

1

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

7/8

1

1

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

7/8

1

1 1/8

Main fabric, 150cm wide, cut in one direction, in meters:

Height/size

34-42

44

46-52

1 (154-160)

0,72

0,74

0,84

2 (162-168)

0,74

0,76

0,86

3 (170-176)

0,77

0,79

0,9

4 (178-184)

0,8

0,9

0,96

Main fabric, 59” wide, cut in one direction, in yards:

Height/size

34-42

44

46-52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

3/4

3/4

7/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3/4

7/8

1

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

7/8

7/8

1

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

7/8

1

1

2. Lining fabric, 140cm wide, in meters:

Height/size

34-40

42-52

1 (154-160)

0,29

0,49

2 (162-168)

0,31

0,51

3 (170-176)

0,33

0,56

4 (178-184)

0,35

0,63

Lining fabric, 55” wide, in yards:

Height/size

34-40

42-52

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

3/8

1/2

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3/8

1/2

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

3/8

5/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

3/8

3/4

IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage of the main fabric and the lining and buy 5% more than required.
3. Heavyweight interfacing (weight: 65 gsm / 1.9 oz/yd2), 140cm (55”) wide, for sizes 34–36 in all heights — 60cm (5/8yd); for sizes 38–52 — 80cm (7/8yd).
4. Lightweight interfacing (weight: 39 gsm / 1.15 oz/yd2), 140cm (55”) wide, for all sizes in all heights — 40cm (3/8yd).
5. Thread matching the main fabric, 1 spool.
6. Thread matching the lining fabric, 1 spool.
7. Thread №30 for decorative hand topstitching, 1 spool.
8. Rigilene boning, 0.8–1cm (3/8”) wide, 5 meters (5 1/2yd).
9. Round-shaped bust cups (optional).
10. Straight-grain fusible stay tape, 1cm (3/8”) wide — about 8 meters (8 3/4yd), both for the garment and the toile.
11. Open-ended zipper, 40cm (15 3/4”) long, to be shortened according to the size.
12. Toile fabric, for example coarse calico (see the yardage in the fabric. requirements chart for the main fabric) + interfacing, about 70cm (3/4yd).

Total bust ease, cm

Size/height

1 (154-160)

2 (162-168)

3 (170-176)

4 (178-184)

34-36

1,4

1,4

2,2

2,2

38-40

1,6

1,6

2,2

2,2

42-44

1,7

1,7

2,3

2,3

46-48

1,9

1,9

2,5

2,5

50-52

2,0

2,0

2,6

2,6

Total bust ease, in

Size/height

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

34-36

1/2

1/2

7/8

7/8

38-40

5/8

5/8

7/8

7/8

42-44

5/8

5/8

7/8

7/8

46-48

3/4

3/4

1

1

50-52

3/4

3/4

1

1

Total waistline ease, cm

Size/height

1 (154-160)

2 (162-168)

3 (170-176)

4 (178-184)

34-36

1,6

1,6

1,6

1,6

38-40

1,6

1,6

1,6

1,6

42-44

1,6

1,6

1,6

1,6

46-48

2,0

2,0

2,0

2,0

50-52

2,3

2,3

2,3

2,3


Total waistline ease, in

Size/height

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

34-36

5/8

5/8

5/8

5/8

38-40

5/8

5/8

5/8

5/8

42-44

5/8

5/8

5/8

5/8

46-48

3/4

3/4

3/4

3/4

50-52

7/8

7/8

7/8

7/8

Center back length from waist down, cm

Size/height

1 (154-160)

2 (162-168)

3 (170-176)

4 (178-184)

34

12,2

13,2

14,1

15,1

36

12,2

13,2

14,2

15,1

38

12,3

13,2

14,2

15,2

40

12,4

13,2

14,2

15,2

42

12,5

13,2

14,2

15,2

44

12,6

13,2

14,2

15,2

46

12,8

13,3

14,2

15,2

48

12,9

13,4

14,2

15,2

50

13,0

13,5

14,3

15,2

52

13,1

13,6

14,3

15,3

Center back length from waist down, in

Size/height

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

34

4 3/4

5 1/4

5 1/2

6

36

4 3/4

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

38

4 7/8

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

40

4 7/8

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

42

4 7/8

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

44

5

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

46

5

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

48

5 1/8

5 1/4

5 5/8

6

50

5 1/8

5 3/8

5 5/8

6

52

5 1/8

5 3/8

5 5/8

6

Center front length from waist down, cm

Size/height

1 (154-160)

2 (162-168)

3 (170-176)

4 (178-184)

34

10,8

11,8

12,8

13,8

36

10,8

11,8

12,8

13,8

38

10,9

11,8

12,8

13,8

40

11,0

11,8

12,8

13,8

42

11,1

11,8

12,8

13,8

44

11,2

11,8

12,8

13,8

46

11,3

11,8

12,8

13,8

48

11,4

11,9

12,8

13,8

50

11,5

12,0

12,8

13,8

52

11,6

12,1

12,8

13,8

Center front length from waist down, in

Size/height

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

34

4 1/4

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

36

4 1/4

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

38

4 1/4

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

40

4 3/8

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

42

4 3/8

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

44

4 3/8

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

46

4 1/2

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

48

4 1/2

4 5/8

5

5 3/8

50

4 1/2

4 3/4

5

5 3/8

52

4 5/8

4 3/4

5

5 3/8

Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the online course materials will be available. After the course begins, the following video lessons and downloadable materials will be provided:
1. A workbook with the detailed process description
2. The pdf pattern in your chosen size and height, in the following formats: printer (A4) and wide-format plotter (both).
A video course made up of the lessons, including all the stages of preparation, fabric selection, cutting and garment construction. The video lessons cannot be downloaded.
If you have any questions on the sewing process, please contact us at info@vikisews.com

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Gera bustier top:

Gera bustier top
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