Idayne trench coat sewing course

Дата и время проведения с по
5550,35
Idayne is a loose-fitting trench coat with a straight cut. It is fully lined and has a double-breasted button front closure. The front features bust darts transferred to the armscyes and a storm flap on the left side. The welt pockets with sewn-in ends feature buttons and buttonholes. The back has a yoke and a center seam ending with a vent. The raglan sleeves feature epaulets at the top that are threaded through loops and secured with buttons and buttonholes. At the bottom of the sleeve, there is a detachable tab threaded through loops and secured with a buckle and grommets. The trench coat has a turned-down, notched collar with a separate collar stand. The detachable belt is secured with belt loops and fastens with a buckle and grommets. There is decorative topstitching along all small pieces — including the tabs, epaulets, and belt — as well as the collar, storm flap, back yoke, center front edges, sleeve outer seams, garment hem, and sleeve hems. Idayne is above-ankle length.

Model Vlada: Height 172 cm (5’7”), Bust 83 cm (32 5/8”), Waist 60 cm (23 5/8”), Hips 88 cm (34 5/8”). Vlada is wearing size XS–S in height 3.

Sizes: 34–52 (EU) Size chart
Heights: 154–160 cm (5’1”–5’3”), 162–168 cm (5’4”–5’6”), 170–176 cm (5’7”–5’9”), 178–184 cm (5’10”–6’1”)
Difficulty: Advanced

The access to the video lessons is not limited in time.
- The trench coat pattern in the selected size, in the PDF format (A4, letter) printable on a regular printer and plotter format (both). The size of the plotter format is indicated in the name of the document. You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900 mm width.
- A workbook describing all the stages of the garment toile making process, correction of fitting issues, construction of the main garment illustrated by photos, tools and equipment required, as well as extra information on how to work with the Vikisews patterns (how to print them out and put them together), how to choose the right size.
- Video lessons on how to select the materials (main fabric, lining fabric, interfacing material, and notions).
- Step-by-step video lessons on how to cut the main garment pieces, perform the fitting, and sew the trench coat. These video lessons include such steps like:
- sewing the welt pockets with sewn-in ends that feature buttons and buttonholes
- sewing the turned-down, notched collar with a separate collar stand
- sewing the storm flaps at the front and back
- sewing the raglan sleeves
- sewing the small pieces, such as epaulets, tabs, belt loops, and belt
- attaching the lining to the garment along the bottom edge and vent
All the video lessons are divided into topics and provided in a consecutive order. Intense and concise, they are free from any irrelevant content.
To sew this trench coat, choose raincoat fabrics with the following properties: medium weight, structured, non-stretch or with very little stretch. The fabric may also be water-repellent and windproof.
The fiber content should be a blend of natural and synthetic fibers, e.g., cotton + polyester, silk + polyester, cotton + viscose + polyester. Or it should contain synthetic fibers (polyester).
The following fabrics are recommended: raincoat fabrics, gabardine, twill, denim, and corduroy. The workbook illustrates the construction of the garment made of the raincoat fabric. The trench coat can also be made of faux leather, faux suede or faux patent leather. However, the workbook does not describe the construction techniques for sewing with these materials.
We do not recommend soft, thin, sheer, stretchy and loosely woven fabrics. Also, we do not recommend using printed fabrics (such as check ones), since it will significantly increase fabric requirements and will complicate the sewing process due to pattern matching.
For the lining, choose lining fabrics made of artificial fibers (viscose) or blends (viscose + elastane, viscose + polyester). The lining fabric should be opaque, smooth, slippery, soft, and pleasant to the touch. It can be non- or low-stretch.
The trench coat in the photo is made of blended raincoat fabric. The fiber content is blend of cotton (68%) and polyester (32%). The fabric is medium weight, structured, non-stretch, and not stiff. It wrinkles moderately.
The fiber content of the lining is a blend of viscose (45%) and polyester (55%).

Size

Bust ease, cm

Waistline ease, cm

Hipline ease, cm

Upper arm ease, cm

XS–S

43–51

63–71.1

37.2–45.2

32.1–36.2

M–L

39–51

59–71.1

33.2–45.3

27.8–34.5

XL

39–47

59.1–67.1

33.2–41.2

25–30.8

Size

Bust ease, in

Waistline ease, in

Hipline ease, in

Upper arm ease, in

XS–S 

16 7/8–20 1/8

24 3/4–28

14 5/8–17 3/4

12 5/8–14 1/4

M–L

15 3/8–20 1/8

23 1/4–28

13 1/8–17 7/8

11–13 5/8

XL

15 3/8–18 1/2

23 1/4–26 3/8

13 1/8–16 1/4

9 7/8–12 1/8

Height, cm

Back length, cm

Sleeve length including shoulder width, cm

1 (154–160)

120–121.2

73.9–74.8

2 (162–168)

125–126.2

75.6–76.7

3 (170–176)

130–131.2

77.9–78.8

4 (178–184)

135–136.2

80.2–80.8

Height, ft

Back length, in

Sleeve length including shoulder width, in

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

47 1/4–47 3/4

29 1/8–29 1/2

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

49 1/4–49 5/8

29 3/4–30 1/4

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

51 1/8–51 5/8

30 5/8–31

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

53 1/8–53 5/8

31 5/8–31 3/4

1.1. Main fabric, 140 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (154–160)

4

4.2

4.45

2 (162–168)

4.1

4.25

4.6

3 (170–176)

4.2

4.35

4.75

4 (178–184)

4.3

4.4

4.9

Main fabric, 55" wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

4 3/8

4 5/8

4 7/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

4 1/2

4 5/8

5

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

4 5/8

4 3/4

5 1/4

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

4 3/4

4 3/4

5 3/8

1.2. Main fabric, 150 cm wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (154–160)

3.7

3.85

4.1

2 (162–168)

3.7

3.9

4.2

3 (170–176)

3.8

4.05

4.45

4 (178–184)

3.85

4.15

4.55

Main fabric, 59" wide, with a directional print/nap, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

4

4 1/4

4 1/2

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

4

4 1/4

4 5/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

4 1/8

4 3/8

4 7/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

4 1/4

4 1/2

5

2. Lining fabric, 140 cm wide, with a directional print, cut on fold, in meters:

Height, cm

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (154–160)

1.95

2.4

2.65

2 (162–168)

2

2.5

2.75

3 (170–176)

2.1

2.6

2.85

4 (178–184)

2.15

2.7

2.95

Lining fabric, 55" wide, with a directional print, cut on fold, in yards:

Height, ft

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

2 1/8

2 5/8

2 7/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

2 1/8

2 3/4

3

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

2 1/4

2 7/8

3 1/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

2 3/8

3

3 1/4

IMPORTANT! When purchasing the main and lining fabrics, please account for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.

3. Interfacing, 50 g/m2, 140 cm wide, cut on fold in one direction, in meters:

Height, cm

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (154–160)

1.45

1.55

1.7

2 (162–168)

1.45

1.55

1.7

3 (170–176)

1.45

1.55

1.7

4 (178–184)

1.45

1.55

1.7

Interfacing, 50 g/m2, 55" wide, cut on fold in one direction, in yards:

Height, ft

XS–S

M–L

XL

1 (5’1”–5’3”)

1 5/8

1 3/4

1 7/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”)

1 5/8

1 3/4

1 7/8

3 (5’7”–5’9”)

1 5/8

1 3/4

1 7/8

4 (5’10”–6’1”)

1 5/8

1 3/4

1 7/8

4. Lightweight interfacing, 30 g/m2 (for interfacing the pocket area), for all sizes in all heights — 25 cm (9 7/8")

5. All-purpose matching thread for the main fabric — 2 spools

6. All-purpose matching thread for the lining fabric — 1 spool

7. Topstitching thread — 1–2 spools depending on the thread length (two 30 m or 33 yd spools). You may use a single or double all-purpose thread matching the main fabric for topstitching

8. Straight-grain fusible stay tape, 1–1.5 cm (3/8–5/8") wide — about 6 m (6 1/2 yd)

9. Bias-cut fusible stay tape, 1–1.5 cm (3/8–5/8") wide — about 3 m (3 1/4 yd)

10. Buttons:

- eleven buttons, 2.2–2.5 cm (7/8–1”) in diameter

- seven backing buttons, 1 cm (3/8") in diameter

11. One 5 cm (2") wide (inner width) prong buckle for the belt

12. Two 4.5 cm (1 3/4") wide (inner width) prong buckle for the sleeve tabs

13. 20 grommets, 5 mm (just under 1/4") in diameter

14. Fabric for the toile such as unbleached calico (the requirement is the same as for the main fabric, plus appr. 0.5 m [1/2 yd] of the interfacing)

- sewing machine for construction
- buttonhole foot
- one-sided foot
- sewing machine needles Nos. 70–80 for the main and lining fabrics
- press tool and molds for installing grommets, hole puncher
Once the order is paid, within 1 minute you will receive an email with the details of the order and a link to your personal account, where the course materials will be available. After the course begins, the following video lessons and downloadable materials will be provided:
1. A workbook with the detailed sewing process description.
2. The pdf pattern in your chosen size and height, in the following formats: printer (A4, letter), and wide-format plotter (both).
The access to the course made up of the lessons, including all the stages of preparation, fabric selection, cutting and garment construction, is not limited in time. The video lessons cannot be downloaded.

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Idayne trench coat:

Idayne trench coat
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