3 cases of fixing fit issues

Here are three interesting fitting problems we helped solve. Check out the before/after photos and solutions we proposed. Maybe some of these cases will help you solve your fit issue.

1. Adjusting the back of the Iliana dress

To our client with a swayback we recommended making the side seams of the back 2 cm (3/4”) shorter and then stretching them to match the side seams of the front.

If you’re struggling with a similar fit issue, try pinning the fabric fold (approximately 2 cm [3/4”]) at the center back curve. When you do, check if the shoulder seams stayed in the right place and the side seams remained straight and vertical. Then you will need to transfer this alteration to your printed pattern, cut away the excess length of the back, and glue your pattern to close the cut area. Now all you have to do is cut a new back piece out of your previous back piece. To do this, either align the adjusted pattern with your back piece along the armscyes or just place the pattern the way it would fully fit on the back piece. When you start sewing the garment, don’t hesitate to stretch the back side seams even more.

If your back is curvier than that, try adding a horizontal seam so you’re able to take in more length at the center back and less at the side seams (in this case, the cut is going to be curved), as shown in the picture. Take in some length at the armscyes if needed.

2. Adjusting the strap position on the Gera corset top

When you are sewing garments like this, it is important to do fittings without wearing a bra so you can properly evaluate the fit. To fix the fit issue in the photos, we suggested moving the straps inwards by taking in some width at the center front and at the zipper area in the back. Additionally, the fit called for making the straps slightly shorter as they were sagging.

3. Fixing the shoulder seam falling back and too narrow front dart issues on the Trish coat

First, to fix such fit issue, we decided to make the back piece longer. Then, we suggested unpicking a couple of centimeters (about ¾”) of the side seam from the armscye down and adding a 3 cm (1 1/8”) wide and 12 cm (4 ¾”) long bust dart. That way, we transferred the shoulder dart into the bust dart, and the front piece maintained the original shape.

More articles on fit adjustments and sewing technology:

Flat seat pattern adjustment

Fitting: getting rid of excess volume in the back of the shorts

How to finish paired darts at the same level