How to sew a zip-up collar

Sewing a zip-up collar might be intimidating, but it can be an easy ride if you follow our step-by-step instructions. Let’s break down the process using the Lindsey hoodie as an example.

1. Reinforce the zipper area on the front piece using a 4 x 13 cm (1 5/8” x 5 1/8”) strip of interfacing.
2. On the wrong side of the front piece, mark the cutting line for the zipper. Cut until the edge marking.
3. Place the bottom edge of the outer collar right sides together with the garment neckline. Machine-stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
4. Steam-press the zipper. Fold the upper edges of the zipper to the wrong side and pin. Open the zipper. Place the zipper parts to the right side of the front so that the upper edges of the zipper are 1 cm (3/8”) away from the neckline edge. Pin and machine-stitch at 1 cm (3/8”) from the cut edge using a one-sided foot.
5. On the wrong side of the front facing piece, mark the cutting line for the zipper. Cut until the edge marking.
6. Place the inner collar and front facing pieces right sides together. Align the neckline edges, pin, and machine-stitch catching the pressed shoulder edge of the front facing. Press the seam allowances open.
7. Place the front facing right sides together with the garment. Machine-stitch in the ditch of the zipper seams.
8. Machine-stitch the top edges of the collar pieces.
9. Trim the corners but do not trim the upper edges of the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
10. Pass the bottom edge of the zipper to the wrong side. Machine-stitch the triangle in place. Shorten the zipper, bind the cut edge, and press.
11. Hand-baste along the zipper and the top edge of the collar.
12. Machine-stitch in the ditch of the shoulder seam to attach the shoulder edge of the front facing.
13. Hand-baste the bottom edge of the inner collar in place making sure it covers the outer collar seam by 2 mm. Machine-stitch in the ditch of the outer collar seam to attach the inner collar.
14. Topstitch along the top edge of the collar and the zipper. Give the collar a final press.

Greetings!

Find more useful sewing tips here:

How to make nice and neat gathers

How to make a topstitched elastic waistband

Tips for accurate first fitting